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@@Delta3111 This is a 2.3 liter

@@foxxrider250r That was a JBR

@@necremuusd Nice! It's always best to get a tune when upgrading flow mods for engine safety and to get the best performance out of the setup

@Owenage1000 That's about 30 psi. I would imagine this is somewhat normal in the mid rpm range, but will taper off drastically at higher rpm. It could also be due to restriction in the system, for example a stock exhaust system.

@michaellevenduski7263 Are u talking about coolant temp? 175F sound kind of cold. Maybe your thermostat is sticking open. I personally had an issue where my AUX fuel line was resting on top of my coolant temp sensor causing wonky coolant temp readings. I repositioned the line and haven't had issues since.

@weekileaks23 I wanted to cover all bases and didn't want to have to go in there again. Tbh it probably was just the master cylinder, as the pedal seemed fine :)

@pingpong9656 Oh man what a scary situation. Congratulations! Hopefully it runs for years to come

It's definitely a fun platform to have fun in! Full list of mods is in the description

You get a lean burn when flat foot shifting with Cobb's FFS feature, which cuts fuel injectors instead of ignition. AUX fuel would continue to spray while the stock injectors are cut during the FFS. This would cause the engine to burn the AUX fuel and cause the gear to lock out, as the engine continues to generate torque. I hope that makes sense :)

@WannabeTuners cheers, so do you have to ffs normal driving or you will get lean burn everytime you shift, or turn wot box off for normal driving

@barry9141 You will only get a lean burn when the AUX fuel starts to spray at higher MAF voltages or under boost. Just cruising around town, you can shift normally by lifting off the gas.

@@WannabeTuners aw I see, does the wot box only activate when you ffs? And is ffs bad for gearbox

@barry9141 It can cause damage to the gear box at very high torque levels, but for the most part our gear boxes are pretty solid. It will activate when it detects that the gas pedal and clutch are both pressed all the way down. The amount of accelerator pedal position before it activates can be adjusted through the WOT box software. Tuned by Nishan has a great video explaining this on his RUclips channel.

All parts were bought from my local Mazda dealership

I went based off of my AEM oil pressure gauge. I'm not sure if the low oil pressure light will extinguish while cranking, as the oil pressure won't be as high while cranking. If I recall correctly, we only needed to crank it a few times before we saw oil pressure on the gauge. I think once we maxed out at around 35 psi, we we're good to go.

That protective cover has to be removed if I recall correctly

@@WannabeTuners I’ve taken out 3 bolts, can’t seem to find the 4th it will wiggle forward and back but won’t come off I think I feel a 4th bolt but I haven’t been able to get at it

@@Tuckerormson I wonder if the intake manifold has to be removed? I can't remember off the top of my head. It's been a while.

@@WannabeTuners I’m thinking if I take the lower intercooler hose off I will be able to see what I’m looking at. I still have the stock top mount.

@Tuckerormson Oh ok got it. Yeah you may have to make more room to get access to that final bolt.

Lol I never had smoking issues either on the the stock K04. I believe a lot of it has to do with the high oil pressure being fed to the turbos bearing system, along with having a high flowing downpipe/exhaust system, which in my mind creates a venturi effect during deceleration at mid to high rpm's. This on top of the high oil pressure being fed to the turbo will pull oil past the turbine seal where it'll burn.

If the fuel pressure drops low enough, it may definitely cause a warning lamp to illuminate. If the leak is significant, the engine could even stall out. But if that's the case you'll definitely smell gas.

@@WannabeTuners Thanks for the quick reply. Original owner of '11 MS3. I have the CS HPFL on the shelf for contingency, but perhaps another OEM part would have been better. Failures at the 90° bend seem to indicate poor mandrel bending process during manufacturing. Did you replace original O-ring and gaskets with new ones when installing the new OEM part after the CS adventure?

@CheaperEngineer Right on! Tbh I don't remember if I replaced the seal/blue o-ring. I don't think I did. It's a pretty solid seal, so long as it doesn't have any rips in it.

The flywheel bolts aren't exposed to engine oil. Mazda torque specs were used and no thread sealant was used.

@@WannabeTuners 2:00:38 you mentioned you put new bolts with some version of thread-lock that was already on it - did I not understand that correctly - did you just use the old bolts with no thread-lock or sealant?

@pingpong9656 If I recall correctly the new OEM flywheel bolts have a blue dry thread lock on the threads

@@WannabeTuners 1:58:09 <- I missed the bit where you actually showed them on the table.

@pingpong9656 Haha it's a bit of a long video. There's a lot of info that can easily be missed. I have a hard time remembering a lot of info tbh.

If u want to keep it stockish I know BNR and Corksport offer similar to stock sized turbos. With most of these turbos though, there is a chance that you'll have to drop oil pressure to the cartridge to prevent oil pushing past the turbine seal and burning up in the exhaust.

I think it was either the right stuff or permatex black, but as of late no issues.

Yes quite a bit more, but nothing unbearable. On top of the engine having less parasitic loss, it just adds more character to the car.

We just installed it dry. We primed the engine before first start by cranking the engine until we saw oil pressure on our AEM gauge with the pressure transducer installed into a sandwich plate above the oil filter.

@@WannabeTuners Sounds good - I did run a bit of oil threw my new pump before install, just to lube it up a bit - good to know it will self prime!

@pingpong9656 Yeah good idea to lube it up before install!

Yep I noticed the exact same thing. The new piston rings need to bed in with the newly honed cylinder walls during engine break in.

@@WannabeTuners Yes - I rotated it a few times, and the noise is already coming down - feels good on rotation too now. Good to hear you experience the same - gives some piece of mind! Don't want to do this twice for sure!

@pingpong9656 100% this isn't something you want to screw up lol

I suspect rod failure was the primary culprit

@@WannabeTuners Makes sense - OEM rods must already be on the limit... good to know. Did you have to re-balance the crank when you upgraded the rods? Or are the new rods the same weight as OEM rods?

@pingpong9656 My machine shop said there was no need to balance the rotating assembly. I can't remember why though.

If it's leaking from the timing cover you'll have to take the valve cover off, set the cams and crank to TDC, take the timing cover back off, and re-seal it.

Haha that's awesome. How's it been working for u?

@@WannabeTuners I actually do not have it anymore! But when I did it was great! Good times man good times. Actually have a vid on my RUclips of it shooting flames haha. Stock cat that I hollowed out with an mbrp cat back. I recently just picked up a speed3 and that’s why I’m in and out of your RUclips hahah.

@@robbinnyohood Beauty! Welcome to the platform!

Yeah it definitely is a bit tricky

I've seen on some other platforms that there is a small pre-filter in behind the banjo bolt where the turbo oil feed line exits the block. This filter was not present in my engine. I think that the purpose of those pre-filters is to prevent premature wear of the turbos bearings from engine break in material. That being said, I had never had any issues with my turbos bearing system getting worn out, even back when I was still on the stock turbo.

There are balance shafts! They are installed within the block on each side above / parallel to the crankshaft and are chain driven.

@@WannabeTuners Yeah I asked this before watching as I expected similar to my BWA!

For which part?

@@WannabeTuners the nipple on my fuel pump assembly cracked so I need a need a whole new one.

@angelowebb3467 Yeah unfortunately it's all one unit.

If I recall correctly, it would skew the readings as the fuel injectors would still open causing a path for cylinder pressure to escape

Yep sounds about right, although you might have to disconnect the downpipe from the exhaust manifold in order to get it off.

Thanks brother. Your video seemed easy enough, I just wanted to be sure 👍 appreciate you 🙏🏻

Things could have definitely gone worse. Gotta be careful. Nice man, a GT500 is a beast of a car. The speed 3 is cheap reliable fun in a way, haven't had any big issues with it, aside from blowing the stock engine, but once built with forged rods and pistons and a good tune, these cars can last a while.

Thanks! My guess if around 500 whp. I've seen people on Instagram take it up to 500 even on stock rods.

@@WannabeTuners thanks bro

@@WannabeTunerswhat’s rod bearings you use ? , I need to buy the rod bearings with bearings tang like you , but i cant find

@@xoxobitches_x666 If I recall correctly, OEM bearings were used.

Yes because if the valves got hit by pistons there's a good chance the guides got damaged by the valve stems pressing up against them

Hey man idk tbh. I would contact the parts department at your local Mazda dealership. Just give them your VIN number and they will be able to get the right one for your car ;)

My suspicion was a failure of the connecting rod in cylinder 2. During the disassembly of the blown engine, we can see that the connecting rod sheared into pieces, so this was likely the first thing to let go before everything else got mangled. Interesting thing is that I had been tuning this car for years on the street without any issue. It was only when I took it to the dyno that it decided to let go.

@@WannabeTuners I think the sliding bearing has become unusable

@@WannabeTuners I'm going to set up my Mazdaspeed stock turbo. Please tell me what is the maximum safe ignition time you used at 5500 rpm 18 psi?

@@Bekhankeligov Will u be tuning the car yourself?

@@WannabeTuners I have Cobb AccessTUNER Race.

100%

That's gotta be a blast

​@@WannabeTuners btw wheres that goodman julian?

@commentmancommentman1658 Busy with life lol. He'll be back though ;)